The point I was trying to make was that I don't think your original question will tell you what you really want to know either - a knackered 1992 saw is worse than a little used 1982 saw for example. Hi, sorry it didn't make it clearer! Megatron's comments are correct specific examples, but don't address your main point, which is about what you're getting for your money. (/from when the new parts will be installed).
#STIHL SERIAL NUMBER YEAR CODE SERIAL NUMBER#
The changes are outlined in service bulletins and a serial number is given up to which the 'old' parts will be used. A few examples -10mm vs 12mm wristpin on 044 -aluminium vs polymer flywheel on 066 -44mm vs 44.7mm piston/cylinder on MS260 etc. Alec There are often quite big changes that have occurred through a saws production run that influence parts availability (OEM and aftermarket), reliability and performance. In my view, at first and even second pass, none of these are significantly affected by serial number. Which will give theoretical performance (, HP and chain speed) so is it a racer or a slogger (design era plays a role here too) and also, by reputation, reliability and parts availability and finally condition- how does it measure up to it's original spec. Weight, and complexity as well as factors like efficiency, noise emissions and vibration levels model spec. Design era, which will tell you a bit about performance vs. There are three factors I think you're trying to assess in secondhand saws.
The characteristics of most models change very little throughout the production run - your 038 would still have been heavy and thirsty whether it was built in 1982, 1992 or 2002 - it would still essentially be based on 1970s technology. You can date them from the serial number, but I'm not sure it would help you very much. You may still have a sticker attached there which lists the model number of your.
#STIHL SERIAL NUMBER YEAR CODE CODE#
Some chain saw makers embed the year of manufacture in the saw’s serial code however, Stihl is.
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